Performance Data: Part 2 – Lead

COACHES TOOL BOX EDITION#4
USING PERFORMANCE DATA: PART 2

Quick Note on COVID-19:

We understand that many of our community are now (or will soon be) in “lockdown” and without access to training facilities. This is a very difficult time and we continue to empathize with the challenges. 

It may not be currently possible to implement the concepts presented below. A suggestion is to use the tool to analyze video of a favorite World Cup athlete. Find out how the best athletes manage energy and time.  

In the last installment of the coach’s toolbox we looked at collecting Performance Data for Bouldering. This month, we’ll look at Lead Data Collection

Part 2 – Lead InRound Tracking Form

Link to Template

This form tracks the following:

  1. Preparation Components – Warm-up & Visualization of the Route
  2. Energy Management
  3. Route Management

These are 3 critical areas that provide insight into how an athlete behaves during a competition round.

Let’s look at how the form works. Click on each Image to see in Larger View

The first Tab is where data is collected: 

For each route, record the following:

The 2nd Tab has compiled data:

Round Data is conditionally formatted to change colour relative to values entered in “Targets”. 

The resulting information can help shape training objectives such as time on holds, repeater intervals, pacing targets and more.

In part 3, we examine a Speed InRound Tracking Form.

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Lead qualifying today at WCH in Moscow.
The McNamee twins in action.

Unfortunately, no Canadians on to semis but good showing from both.
@kindarmcnamee 53rd
@guymcnamee  59th

Congrats to all Canadians who represented in Russia.

Lead qualifying today at WCH in Moscow.
The McNamee twins in action.

Unfortunately, no Canadians on to semis but good showing from both.
@kindarmcnamee 53rd
@guymcnamee 59th

Congrats to all Canadians who represented in Russia.
...

Day 2 of Workd champs today

Boulderers center stage today.

@rileyclimbs and Madison Fischer in Women's and @zach_richardson_ and @guymcnamee in Men's.

Maddie grabbed 2 tops and 3 zones to post 25th, her best IFSC Senior result to date and just outside semis. Riley managed to find 1 zone in her first ever IFSC Senior Competition to finish 71st. She will undoubtedly learn from the experience and be back stronger in the future.

Guy snagged 51st place in the men's with 1 top and 3 zones. A decent result for his IFSC Senior event. Zach couldn't find his usual form and finished 65th with 2 Zones. We know he'll be back 🙂

So nice to see the Maple Leaf on the World Stage!!

Video of Maddie by @liborhroza

On to Lead starting on the 20th.

Day 2 of Workd champs today

Boulderers center stage today.

@rileyclimbs and Madison Fischer in Women's and @zach_richardson_ and @guymcnamee in Men's.

Maddie grabbed 2 tops and 3 zones to post 25th, her best IFSC Senior result to date and just outside semis. Riley managed to find 1 zone in her first ever IFSC Senior Competition to finish 71st. She will undoubtedly learn from the experience and be back stronger in the future.

Guy snagged 51st place in the men's with 1 top and 3 zones. A decent result for his IFSC Senior event. Zach couldn't find his usual form and finished 65th with 2 Zones. We know he'll be back 🙂

So nice to see the Maple Leaf on the World Stage!!

Video of Maddie by @liborhroza

On to Lead starting on the 20th.
...

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